When you look at the label on the back of any skincare product, you're likely to see a bewildering array of unfamiliar ingredients. Most of these are there to enhance the product's feel and support, preserve, or carry the ingredients that do the actual heavy lifting—the ACTIVE ingredients.
Understanding Your Skincare Products for Better Results
“Simply put, an active ingredient is something that’s proven to have a beneficial effect on the skin,” says DermapenWorld founder and Cosmeceutical Director Corri Marshall. “For example, Vitamin A has been proven to have a rejuvenating effect on lines and wrinkles.”
Meaning that understanding these active ingredients is crucial for identifying which skincare products are most likely to deliver the results you want.
Let’s take a look starting with some of the basic categories of actives:
anti-ageing agents
antioxidants
hydrators and soothing agents
skin brighteners
exfoliants
ANTI-AGEING AGENTS
These powerful ingredients help reduce fine lines, boost collagen, and maintain youthful skin.
Retinaldehyde (Vitamin A)
The Gentle Retinoid
Retinaldehyde is a potent derivative of Vitamin A, known for its ability to promote skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production.
This process helps to smooth out the skin's texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve overall skin firmness.
Unlike other retinoids, retinaldehyde is less irritating, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
It also helps to unclog pores and reduce acne, making it a versatile ingredient for both anti-ageing and acne-prone skin.
Bakuchiol
Nature's Retinol Alternative
Bakuchiol is a plant-based compound that offers similar benefits to retinol without the associated irritation. It helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and even out skin tone.
Bakuchiol also has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it suitable for sensitive skin and those looking for a gentler alternative to traditional retinoids.
Its ability to stimulate collagen production and promote cell turnover makes it a valuable addition to any anti-ageing skincare routine.
Geranylgeranylisopropanol (GGP)
The Cellular Protector
GGP is a cutting-edge ingredient that works by stabilising telomeres, the protective caps at the ends of DNA strands.
By maintaining telomere length, GGP helps to prolong the life of skin cells, enhancing skin firmness and elasticity.
This results in a more youthful appearance, with reduced fine lines and improved skin resilience. GGP's ability to support cellular health makes it a powerful anti-ageing agent, helping to keep the skin looking vibrant and youthful.
Copper Peptides
The Collagen Booster
Copper peptides are known for their ability to stimulate collagen and elastin production, which are essential for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity.
These peptides also promote wound healing and reduce inflammation, making them beneficial for overall skin health. Additionally, copper peptides have antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from free radical damage and environmental stressors.
Their multifaceted benefits make them a valuable ingredient for reducing wrinkles, improving skin texture, and enhancing the skin's natural defence mechanisms.
ANTIOXIDANTS
Antioxidants help to neutralise free radicals, nasty molecules that can cause premature ageing, inflammation and skin damage.
Vitamin C
The Brightening Powerhouse
Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage and environmental stressors. It boosts collagen production, which helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Vitamin C also brightens the skin by inhibiting melanin production, reducing hyperpigmentation, and evening out skin tone.
Its ability to enhance skin radiance and improve overall skin health makes it a must-have ingredient in any skincare routine.
Vitamin E
The Skin Shield
Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from oxidative stress and environmental damage. It also has moisturising properties, which help to keep the skin hydrated and supple.
Vitamin E supports skin repair and regeneration, making it beneficial for healing damaged skin and reducing the appearance of scars.
Its ability to enhance the skin's natural barrier function and provide long-lasting hydration makes it an essential ingredient for maintaining healthy, resilient skin.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
The Multi-Tasker
Niacinamide is a versatile ingredient that offers a wide range of benefits for the skin. It helps to reduce inflammation, improve skin barrier function, and minimise the appearance of pores.
Niacinamide also evens out skin tone, reduces hyperpigmentation, and enhances skin elasticity. Its ability to regulate oil production makes it suitable for both dry and oily skin types.
With its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties, niacinamide is a valuable addition to any skincare routine.
HYDRATORS AND SOOTHING AGENTS
Essential to any skincare regimen, hydrators attract and retain moisture, keeping your skin hydrated and calm.
Panthenol (Vitamin B5)
The Moisture Magnet
Panthenol is a humectant meaning it attracts and retains moisture, helping to keep your skin hydrated and plump. Panthenol also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin.
This supports skin healing and regeneration, promoting a healthy skin barrier and reducing redness.
Panthenol’s ability to provide long-lasting hydration and enhance skin comfort makes it a key ingredient for maintaining soft, supple skin.
SKIN BRIGHTENERS
These actives even out skin tone and reduce pigmentation for a radiant complexion.
Tranexamic Acid (TXA)
The Pigmentation Fighter
TXA has been making a splash on the beauty scene lately and we understand why. (Dp Dermaceuticals™ have been using it for years!) It’s a powerful ingredient that helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and dark spots, leading to a more even and radiant complexion.
It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots and uneven skin tone. Tranexamic acid is effective in treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and other forms of discolouration.
Its ability to brighten the skin and improve overall skin tone makes it a valuable addition to any skincare routine targeting pigmentation issues.
EXFOLIANTS
These are the ingredients that help remove dead skin cells, promote cell turnover and reveal smoother, fresher skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
The Surface Smoothers
AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, are water-soluble acids that exfoliate the skin's surface. They help to remove dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and reveal fresher, smoother skin.
AHAs also improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and enhance skin radiance.
Their ability to exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin makes them ideal for addressing dullness, uneven texture, and signs of ageing.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
The Pore Purifiers
BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are oil-soluble acids that penetrate deep into the pores to exfoliate and clear out impurities.
They help to reduce acne, blackheads, and congestion by dissolving excess oil and dead skin cells.
BHAs also have anti-inflammatory properties, making them effective in calming irritated skin and reducing redness.
Their ability to purify the pores and improve overall skin clarity makes them a valuable ingredient for acne-prone and oily skin.
Which Active Ingredients Are Right for Your Skin Concerns?
AGEING OR SUN-DAMAGED SKIN
Our skin ages naturally but the process is accelerated by external factors such as UV rays, smoking and pollution. As a result, skin starts to thin and fine lines and wrinkles appear. Pigmentation also appears in the form of freckles, age spots or melasma.
Look for: Vitamin A, Vitamin E, Copper Peptides, Hyaluronic Acid, TXA
Find them in: AGE-DEFYING STARTER KIT, BRIGHTENING STARTER KIT, RETINAL ACTIVE™, BRITE LITE™, VITAMIN RICH REPAIR™
FINE LINES & WRINKLES
Fine lines and wrinkles start appearing around the age of 25. The earlier you fortify your skin with potent anti-ageing active ingredients, the longer you can ward off these tell-tale signs of age.
Look for: Vitamin A (Retinaldehyde), Vitamin E, Copper Peptides, Hyaluronic Acid, Bakuchiol.
Find them in: AGE-DEFYING STARTER KIT, VITAMIN RICH REPAIR, RETINAL ACTIVE, R.E.R. EYE SERUM™, R.E.R. EYE MASK™
PIGMENTATION
Some people are simply more prone to pigmentation (darker skin tones are more at risk, for example). Along with the following active ingredients, a good slathering of SPF is essential to reduce and prevent visible dark patches. “One thing that might surprise you,” says Marshall, “is that pigmentation is quite superficial, so just exfoliating dead skin with MICRO DERM EXFOLIANT™ is beneficial. It’s gentle enough to use every day, and the active ingredients also brighten the skin.”
Look for: Tranexamic acid, Vitamin C, Kojic Dipalmitate, Liquorice, Safflower Seed Oil Piperonyl Esters (SSOPE)
Find them in: BRIGHTENING STARTER KIT, ANTIOXIDANT COCKTAIL™, BRITE LITE, MICRO DERM EXFOLIANT
ROSACEA
Starting on the nose and butterflying out to the cheeks, forehead and chin, Rosacea symptoms can vary from a mild red rash to painful pustules. The key is to build resilience in your sensitive skin to minimise symptoms.
Marshall explains, “Using a barrier moisturiser like SKIN VENEER™ helps protect your skin from environmental triggers while soaking up all the moisture from the HA.”
Look for: Vitamin B3, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Hyaluronic Acid
Find them in: ROSACEA SET, ANTIOXIDANT COCKTAIL, TRI-PHASE CLEANSER™, SKIN VENEER
ACNE & BREAKOUTS
When your oil glands kick into over-drive or hormones are imbalanced, you may find that your skin breaks out. Acne ranges from white and blackheads to cystic acne with infection in the skin. Gently clearing your pores, killing P. acnes bacteria, and regulating oil production can reduce your acne.
Look for: Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Hyaluronic Acid, BHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid)
Find them in: CLEAR SKIN STARTER KIT, CLR LOTION™, CLR FOAM CLEANSER™, CLINIPREP+™
SCARS
Acne, surgery or injury can all cause scars, but not all scars have to be permanent. Dermapen Treatments™ are effective in reducing the appearance of scars. When coupled with proper active ingredient skincare, the results are remarkable. HylaFuse™ travels deeply into scar tissue to help revise scars.
Silicone is another remarkable active ingredient used in scar revision creams, including SSSCAR™. Today, many skincare companies promote themselves as being ‘silicone-free’ due to the misconception that silicones cause acne and congestion. Despite the many rumours, silicone physiologically cannot cause blackheads, pimples or acne. And has been scientifically shown to provide great improvement in the formation and reduction of scars.
Look for: Retinaldehyde (Vitamin A), HylaFuse, Centella Asiatica Extract, Vitamin E, Silicone
Find them in: RETINAL ACTIVE, SSSCAR, and MG-R.A.S. and MG-HA35+ (Professional Dermapen Meso-Glides™)
STRETCH MARKS
Stretch marks are distinctive scars that form after a period of rapid growth. Dermapen Treatments can greatly reduce their appearance especially when the correct Protocols are followed, including regular application of Dp Dermaceuticals to boost results.
Look for: Retinaldehyde (Vitamin A), HylaFuse, Centella Asiatica Extract, Vitamin E, Silicone
Find them in: RETINAL ACTIVE, SSSCAR, and MG-R.A.S. and MG-HA35+ (Professional Dermapen Meso-Glides™)
ENLARGED PORES
We need our pores, but does everyone need to see them? Enlarged pores make it impossible to have that smooth glowing complexion you’re craving. Pores appear smaller and skin smoother when you keep them clean and plump the skin that surrounds them. Regular at-home microneedling with the Dermapen HOME™ is good for pores.
Look for: Retinaldehyde (Vitamin A), BHAs
Find them in: CLR FOAM CLEANSER, RETINAL ACTIVE, VITAMIN RICH REPAIR
Get Your Actives Working Harder with Dermapen Treatments™
Combine Dermapen Treatments with Dp Dermaceuticals’ Active Ingredients for the Best Results
Dermapen Treatments are a famously effective way to address many kinds of skin concerns in one go. What’s better, there’s no downtime after a procedure.
Microneedling on its own offers outstanding results as the body responds by producing more collagen and elastin. But when the procedures are supported by our active ingredients before, during and after microneedling, you’ll see those results faster.
The super fine needles of the Dermapen 4™ penetrate the skin in a precise up and down motion, meaning there is no grabbing or tearing, and infuse the high-quality, safe formulations of Dp Dermaceuticals deep into the skin.
Whether your skin is disrupted by acne, pigmentation, wrinkles, scars or a combination of concerns, Dermapen Treatments will give your skin a complete make-over.
You’ll face the world with the confidence that smooth, younger-looking skin offers. Find your nearest Authorised Treatment Provider to book a consultation today.
If you are a professional and wish to learn how to become a DermapenWorld Authorised Treatment Provider, click here.
